The New York Times has released its 2021 restaurant list of the 50 places in the U.S. its critics, reporters and editors are most excited about.
Two Minnesota restaurants made the list. They are Owamni by the Sioux Chef in Minneapolis and Sooki & Mimi in Minneapolis.
Owamni, by Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson, features a decolonized menu and highlights ingredients from Native American producers, such as venison sausage, green salad with toasted crickets and smoked Lake Superior trout served with berry wajape, the New York Times says.
The paper adds:
"And you won’t find items that the owners believe represent white settlers’ colonization of the country’s diet, like dairy and wheat flour.
"The lofty ambitions do not preclude pleasure. Mr. Sherman’s cooking is as on-point as Sioux Chef’s activism. And the restaurant’s location is both scenic and symbolic, overlooking a riverside site sacred to the Dakota and Anishinaabe peoples."
Owamni, which opened in July, is at 420 1st St. S, on the banks of the Mississippi River, in Minneapolis.
The New York Times had equal praise for chef-restauranteur Ann Kim's latest restaurant, Sooki & Mimi. It said:
"The new place’s genre-defying menu, born of Ms. Kim’s infatuation with masa, runs from mushroom birria and walleye tacos to green chorizo potstickers and meat-free aguachile that, on a May visit, was dotted with tart morsels of pickled rhubarb.
"With the chef de cuisine Fiona Hunter churning out dishes that seem to mirror the clean-lined interior design, Sooki & Mimi has brought a sense of renewal to a neighborhood still scarred from the unrest following the killing of George Floyd."
The paper notes that Kim's "breakthrough" restaurant Young Joni "established her as one of the Midwest's most inspiring chef-restaurateurs."
Sooki & Mimi, which opened in February, is at 1432 W 31st St. in Minneapolis.
You can see the other 48 restaurants on the New York Times list here.
Correction: An earlier version of this story misspelled Owamni, which is frankly embarrassing and we're extremely ashamed/sorry about it.